A MUST READ GUIDE TO CRESTED GECKO CARE
BY ME =] ( a experienced CG owner. )
OK. Here are some images of the things you MUST have in order to keep your crested Gecko alive. Read this whole thing before you buy a Crested Gecko. Please for the Gecko's sake. RULE 1 of buying a Animal. Always do your research before purchasing anything.
Crested Geckos live around 10-20 years depending on how well you care for them. Crested Geckos come in a variety of colors. They are mostly Nocturnal animals. This means a lot of their activity takes place at night time. That means they should be fed right before you go to sleep. I myself like to offer them food twice a day simply because i mess up their sleep during the day and i feel bad. lol. Crested Gecko's make good pets. They are generally nice and easy to care for as long as you do some research before hand. Crested Gecko's keep their Eyes moisturized by licking them so don't be alarmed or worried when you see this behavior it is perfectly normal and cute. =]
Crested Gecko's get Duller in color when they are sleeping. ALSO when they are sleeping sometimes you will notice their eyes look a little sunken in. My Red cresty does this especially when he is in a deep sleep.
It is very difficult to tell gender of a baby crested gecko so don't bother to try, you don't want to risk injuring it.
Average size: 8"-9"
DON'T get your Crested Gecko's things from outside. NOTHING. You don't want to risk exposing them to something. Most pet stores have cleaned furniture, moss, and other cage stuff that are safe to put in the cage.
CRESTED GECKOS CAN CLIMB VERY WELL. They are like spider man but cuter. They have the equivalent of sticky feet. So watch out. They will escape if everything isn't secure. Look at the Gecko to the Right he is upside down!
Look at some of these gecko. When a gecko loses it's tail, it probably means it was really stressed and scared. They drop their tails so that they can get away from prey while the prey is watching the moving tail. Sadly its a 1 time thing, tails do not re grow. ALSO having too many geckos housed together (especially different sizes like this person's image..) will cause the geckos to fight - thus tail loss. You should never have this many gecko's together in a small container especially with various sizes. I feel bad for these Geckos. =( They look miserable.
Crested Gecko Diet By Repashy
Repashy is the ONLY food my geckos will eat that are supplemental enough to live on. They can also eat fruits and a few other odds and ends like baby food. I HIGHLY suggest this food however. It even comes in many flavors. Some Gecko's Prefer different flavors.
This stuff? THEY HATE .> they would rather starve then eat this food. Trust me i have tried. MOST (not ALL) crested geckos wont eat this.FLUKERS CRESTED GECKO BEADS (YUCK!)
DON'T USE THIS. Most Geckos DO NOT like it.
NONE out of 5 Geckos i have had liked this.
I currently have 3 Crested Geckos.
FOOD BOWLS/ WATER DISHES/ SQUIRT BOTTLE
Should be shallow. Here is a good example. I personally use bottle cap lids- especially ones that are metal, and don't have the edges inside like most soda caps. Also don't forget to spray their cages to keep humidity up. So you may want a spray bottle of some sort.
How to prepare Rapashy's Food (powder)
* 1 part food, 2 parts water
what does that even mean you say? Basically, because the food is so absorbent, you need a little more water than you think. What i do s use a plastic spoon from wendy's (or anywhere) and a spray bottle. I take two pinches of powder, and hold the knife above the powder on the cap. I spray the middle of the knife and let the water drip down slowly to be absorbed in the powder. You want it slightly watery because it will take a minute to fully absorb and you don't want it to quickly dry out. Don't freak out, it takes a couple of tries to get it just right. Try your own methods and figure out what works best for you.
HERE IS A VIDEO OF ME MIXING THE FOOD. =]
Hopefully this helps you guys. =]
HOUSING / CAGES / TEMPERATURE / SPACE RULES
This EXO TERRA container is perfect for housing a Gecko. NO MORE THAN 2 GECKOS.
Geckos must either be 2 females, or 1 adult female and 1 adult male. Otherwise they will fight. Adults will breed. Another GOOD thing to add to a container like this is :
SEE how there is magnetic ledges? Those are great for adding additional water and food areas. Especially when you have two geckos living in the same space. Most baby geckos will fight unless they have alot of hiding and moving space as well as food and water. Moss is a good way to hold humidity. Also found in the pet store.
OK, Other things to consider.
They are not super needy when it comes to light, All they really need is a 73-76 degree's temp. Fahrenheit. And 50% humidity minimum. Which is why you must mist the cage. Don't use heat bulbs over 50 watts. It will be TOO MUCH. Line the bottom of the tank with paper towels or The green carpet. They both have to be replaced frequently. Everything on here should be available VIA internet or your local pet store. I know Petsmart carries the cages, and food for sure.
HANDLING TIPS -A MUST READ FOR NEWBIES
Most Reptiles do not like to be handled. Rules of handling:
Be patient. Your Gecko has to get use to you. He doesn't know you well enough for you to be grabbing him with your scary grubby human fingers right after you purchase him.
Move Slowly. Any animal instinctively see's sudden movements in their direction as a threat. Which could result in you getting bitten or rejected by them running away. Remember the "Fight or Flight" saying? It applies to all living creatures. When your going to pick them up approach slowly and calmly.
Handle with Care. This applies to more than your precious packages from Fed Ex. Crested Geckos are Fragile. If they get too stressed or you grab their tail THEY COULD LOSE IT. Cresty's tails DO NOT grow back. Alot of people make this mistake and it often results in a tail-less stressed gecko. So be extra careful. Gecko's also love to jump! I've seen my little Harley try to jump right out of my hand while i was standing! Gecko's are not very smart and don't seem to think about the fact that they may get hurt jumping from that height. It's up to you to take extra precautions to keep them safe! Remember Reptiles are Exotic. Exotic Vet bills are HIGH. Also there are usually very few exotic animals vets sadly. The closest one to myself is about 45 minutes away! Gecko's are also not ideal for children. Do not let a small child hold a gecko, children often don't know how to be gentle with them. Supervise kids and teach them to be careful.
DONT PANIC. Chances are at some point in time... and it WILL happen... you will get pooped on. and you will be bitten at least once in your life by your beloved reptile. Crested Gecko's are weak, and their bites don't hurt. So there is no reason for you to panic and toss your Gecko across the room squealing when it bites you. I think you might even find it cutely amusing, it really doesn't even hurt. Now if your afraid of a little poop? DON'T buy a Crested Gecko. T_T. have you ever heard the saying "If you Don't want to get bitten don't buy a reptile"? There is ALOT of truth to that statement.
WELL that is all for now guys. If i am missing something or you have any questions let me know! =] I am glad to help. This covers all the basics (im pretty sure) of owning a Crested Gecko. I will not cover Breeding nor "sexing" so please don't ask. I really am not knowledgeable enough on the topics myself. I love my Gecko's, they are the cutest things i have ever seen! I hope you all enjoyed this Guide. I know i enjoyed writing it! ALso one last note. Most of the images are not my own and i do not claim credit for them. The video is 100% my own. I might do more video's on Crested Gecko's. Please feel free to let me know of anything you might want to see added to the site. Thanks for Reading/Watching! =]
Asian Water Monitors
This is a baby Asian water monitor.
His cage (above) right before i bought bedding
him in his bowl
a little blurry but i will add more pictures later.
About monitors in general: These lizards are known for their huge size and dangerous capabilities. Not for the beginner reptile enthusiast.
The Asian water monitor is the second largest lizard in the world next to the Komodo dragon.
Lifespan: Water monitors reach maturity in two years and have a lifespan of about 15 years.
Size: 6-7ft avg. can reach up to 9ft in length.
Diet: changes with size. babies eat crickets or meal worms as well as small god fish. juveniles eat rodents, roaches, crickets, mollusks, meal worms, and occasionally chicken or eggs. adults can eat all of the above as well as rats, crabs, fish, birds, ducks, chickens, rabbbits, or even small animals that (WE HOPE) you wouldn't intentionally feed them such as cats.
Behavior: like most lizards, they are not fond of being handled. They can however come to tolerate it after time of handling and care. Most would run rather then attack. They are very fast lizards that can outrun a human. they are also very good swimmers and can even climb. they can stay under water up to 30 minutes. when they swim they fold their limbs down beside their body and sway like a fish to propel themselves. they are one of the more "tameable" monitors, unlike its wild cousin the Nile monitor who are known for their nasty temperament. frequent handling daily is important when raising a monitor to be tame. also note that as they get bigger their bites get very much stronger, so taming them is important.
Habitat and origin: The water monitor's preferred habitat consist of tropical areas, mangrove forests, areas of thick vegetation, and bodies of water. Water monitors are found in Asia, Sri Lanka, India, Indochina, the Malay Peninsula, and on various Malaysian islands.
Some Requirements: UVB bulb, calcium powder, hide box, bedding, basking spot, Heat bulb, temp guage, water bowl big enough to swim in, good amount of space.
My monitor: hes very energetic , loves to eat anything and everything even if its dead! he spends alot of time in his water bowl, he poops in it alot which means i end up cleaning it everyday. He eats varieties and yes i do put calcium powder on his food. he eats crickets, fish, occasionally eggs and rotisserie chicken, both are cooked. he prefers boiled eggs, but likes the chicken a whole lot more. he enjoys chasing his food and catching his own fish. he seems to dislike new people that hes never seen before, usually when new people come over he clings to me and tries to crawl up me under my hair and such. i keep him in a 20 gallon tank but only for now. he has a basking spot and a good hide box.i frequently take him out and let him run around. hes never bitten me although sometimes he tries to run from me.
FEEDING TIPS AND TRICKS FOR ASIAN WATER MONITORS
By: Sarah Boyer
Important note: some of these things may or may not be good or bad for your monitor lizard to eat at all. I’ve been feeding my lizard these things for a while with no bad side effects or anything to him, in fact he seems quit active and healthy. I will post a vet visit up soon as well so you guys know he is fine. Anything with a * next to it, has yet to be proven perfectly ok and/or not harmful in any way to the lizards health. Thanks. Any Comments or knowledge is welcome, but please no rudeness or foul language, it’s not necessary. I didn’t have to share anything on here; I’m only trying to help fellow monitor keepers and newbies.
What I have found out about Asian Water Monitors:
NOTE: always make sure the frozen foods are fully un-thawed.
It always pays to vary their diet, add a little calcium powder here and there, never feed them the same thing all the time or they might become stingy assholes and kill all the damn fish and not eat them in protest because he’s tired of Fish 0_0
Yeah it happened to me. Lol. All these are tried and proven on my own monitor who is healthy and eating a lot.
Okay so here is what all my monitor eats
· (Main diet) Frozen pinkies and fuzzies (thaw them out beforehand DUH. And switch to mice and then eventually rats as needed)
· (2nd main diet) small feeder goldfish (I buy 12 and put them in a large bowl so he can fish them out himself – SUPER FUNNY to watch! ^-^)
· Roaches (he wont eat the really small ones and he wont eat the really big ones.)
· Crickets (these usually only work out when they are really young. Once you have had them for a year crickets are not only un-nutritional but get costly since he needs so many of them.)
· Beef heart (cows heart frozen into cubes, its available at any fish store, microwave for 15 seconds depending on microwave and serve on a plate.)
· *Rotisserie chicken (giant, food lion, etc. has these already made and under a heater. Give him small portions, wiggle them around or leave on a plate in cage to gain his interest. Note that you do not want to make this a main diet for him)
· *Bologna (mine actually really liked it. He ate one slice within 15 minutes. Wiggle it a little with tongs to entice them. Only give them this as a treat or something to hold them over if u have to. Never a main diet.)
These foods he showed NO interest in at all. I tried wiggling them, mixing them with other stuff, offering them on a plate, leaving them in his tank, but alas I don’t think any Asian water monitor would eat these. I am sad I wasted so much money. Maybe this will save you some time and money. =)
· Serra Reptil Raffy 1 Gammarus Mixture (generally 6 or seven dollars…looks like just a bunch of small dried up meal worms to me…I am assuming that they wont eat any dried meal worms or dead worms at all.)
· Live meal worms (tried all the obvious like I named in the paragraph above. He just wasn’t interested. I’ve heard of monitors eating them when they are smaller but I have yet to see it.)